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Rock Climbing in Provo

Provo is home to a fun and challenging climbs with a fun diversity in climbing styles. Climbing in Provo is primarily found in Rock Canyon, where you will find a everything from trad routes to super tall sport routes. Rock Canyon is home to nearly 500 routes that are sure to please as you navigate around the expansive canyon. The mouth of the canyon opens up with quartzite rock that offers some fun challenging small edged climbs as well as a fair amount of large juggy climbs. As you hike into the deeper sections of Rock Canyon you will find the rock changes to limestone, and lets face it who doesn't love climbing on limestone. 

Crags in Rock Canyon


ACDC WALL 

another-lead-climberLocation From the parking lot stay left on the road, cross the streambed, and walk to the water tank on the north side of the canyon. Just past the water tank head up a trail to the right of the talus.

Keep heading uphill, passing through some scrub oak until you reach the base of a light-colored crag (The Jobsite) at the bottom, east corner of the gully.

Continue up the gully, staying right of the talus on a faint trail (you can completely avoid the talus). The routes begin at the black streaks on the right side, beyond the scrub oak.

 Range of difficulty  |  12 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
SINGLE PITCH SPORT10MULTI PITCH SPORT1SINGLE PITCH TRAD1MULTI PITCH TRAD0



The Adjective Wall

girl-top-rope-climbingLocation Proceed up the canyon to the first stream crossing (a small wooden bridge). Instead of crossing the bridge stay right along the edge of the stream bed. Continue past the gully on the right (approx. 100 feet from the crossing) and along the base of the wall at the right (south) of the stream bed . When the wall turns a corner and heads south you are at the north side of The Adjective.

 Range of difficulty  |  20 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
SINGLE PITCH SPORT20MULTI PITCH SPORT0SINGLE PITCH TRAD0MULTI PITCH TRAD0



The Appendage

asian-woman-lead-climbingLocation Past The Kitchen and just past two cement retaining walls on your north (left), cross the stream and hike up the left fork of the trail to the crag.

A very short wall with several bolted routes and some short cracks that can be lead on gear. A little off the well-beaten Rock Canyon path, this place can offer moments of solitude.

 Range of difficulty  |  8 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
SINGLE PITCH SPORT6MULTI PITCH SPORT2SINGLE PITCH TRAD0MULTI PITCH TRAD0



Bad bananas

woman-rock-climbingLocation Easy to see from the parking lot. 

From the parking lot start on the paved path. Take the left fork and cross the streambed (or stream, in the Spring). Pass the round water tank on your left and take a path that angles uphill and right a bit. 

Follow the path to the base of the light-colored wall directly above (The Jobsite). Turn left (west) and head directly across the talus to some trees at the base of an overhanging, brown formation. Continue uphill and cross a small gully. 

Continue west until you turn a corner and head uphill on some brown, sharp rock (Mineral Fork Tillite). Follow the faint trail west and uphill that appears when you leave the tillite. This trail deposits you at the left side of the Super Bowl roof. Continue west a bit to Bad Bananas

 Range of difficulty  |  18 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
4
SINGLE PITCH SPORT10MULTI PITCH SPORT5SINGLE PITCH TRAD0MULTI PITCH TRAD3



The Balcony  

woman-rock-climbingLocation Head up a hard-to-see gully just past the [[105739774]. You will eventually be led to the crumbly wall on top of which The Balcony sits. 

There is a 5.9-ish approach pitch. The approach pitch takes you up to the slopey ledge at the base of The Balcony.

Walk just past the Hidden Wall. Turn around, and look up and back left a bit and you will see one of the best cliffs in the whole canyon! 

The wall faces east and is shady most of the day. Be ready with your best skin as most of the routes here are crimp-feasts! Every route is pretty darn awesome!

 Range of difficulty  |  12 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
SINGLE PITCH SPORT3MULTI PITCH SPORT0SINGLE PITCH TRAD0MULTI PITCH TRAD0



Black Rose

woman-rock-climbingLocation Start from the Rock Canyon parking lot. You can see Red Slab on the south side of the canyon from the parking lot. Black Rose is located right off from the trail, just to the left side and below Red Slab

Walk upcanyon along the paved trail (take the right path for the easiest approach). After about a ten minute walk you will see a jumble of broken rocks and a trail that leads up to Red SlabBlack Rose is the tall, blank faces directly off from the trail to the east of the broken rocks.

 Range of difficulty  |  11 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
SINGLE PITCH SPORT5MULTI PITCH SPORT0SINGLE PITCH TRAD6MULTI PITCH TRAD0



Blue wall

woman-rock-climbingLocation The Blue Wall is located on the north side of the canyon between the first and second bridges. When the second bridge can be seen ahead there is a large gully with a talus slope on the left (the second gully on the left after the first bridge). Slog up the talus to the top of the slope and turn left (west). The routes are on the right after a large roof with a prominent blue streak below and to the left of the roof. 

 Range of difficulty  |  4 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
SINGLE PITCH SPORT4MULTI PITCH SPORT0SINGLE PITCH TRAD0MULTI PITCH TRAD0



Boingo wall

woman-rock-climbingLocation Ten minutes or so past the gate in the trail there is a water fountain on the right side (south) of the trail. Several hundred feet past the water fountain there are several tall-ish evergreens to the north of the trail, on the opposite side of the creek bed from the trail. 

Behind the above-mentioned trees is Boingo Wall (it isn't visible from this spot in the trail because of the trees). Cross the creek bed to the base of these trees and the wall is visible about 200 feet northeast. 

If you reach the first creek crossing (small wooden bridge) on the main trail you have gone too far upcanyon.

 Range of difficulty  |  3 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
20
SINGLE PITCH SPORT3MULTI PITCH SPORT0SINGLE PITCH TRAD0MULTI PITCH TRAD0



Bolt Slab

woman-rock-climbingLocation Just before the green gate and The Kitchen a trail cuts south (right) leading uphill to the Bolt Slab. The north face of Bolt Slab can be seen right above The Kitchen. The rock has two distinct spires on top and two parallel offwidth chimneys extending the length of the face.

 Range of difficulty  |  8 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
SINGLE PITCH SPORT0MULTI PITCH SPORT0SINGLE PITCH TRAD8MULTI PITCH TRAD0



Buckley's Mine Wall

woman-rock-climbingLocation Approximately an hour from the parking lot, Buckley’s Mine requires some fortitude to reach. Hike up the canyon past the first bridge. 

The second gully on the left (if I remember correctly) contains a large talus field. Hike up the talus field and turn left at the top of the gully when the wall is reached. 

Passing the Blue Wall routes on the right, continue on a faded trail west around several outcroppings and through several gullys. There is one location that requires a tiny bit of down climbing using your hands. It isn’t always obvious where the trail continues when crossing the various talus fields; it is generally best to walk straight across the talus and find the trail on the other side. (If you walk uphill along the side of the talus as I did you’ll waste effort.) 

Eventually you’ll come around a point and Buckley’s Mine will be obvious in front of you and to your right. The mine and route are reached on a slope above a short cliff; climb the lower-angled rock on the right of the cliff. The route itself is about twenty feet right of the mine entrance.

 Range of difficulty  |  2 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
SINGLE PITCH SPORT2MULTI PITCH SPORT0SINGLE PITCH TRAD0MULTI PITCH TRAD0



Bug Barn Dance Wall

woman-rock-climbingLocation BBDW sits about a mile up from the Rock Canyon parking, 100 yds past the water fountain on the right, and on the north side of the canyon. The crag just about reaches the stream and lies opposite the Bosko Wall.

The Bug Barn Dance Wall is one of the excellent, moderate limestone crags in the canyon. It holds close to a dozen routes all between 5.9 and 5.11. 

 Range of difficulty  |  11 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
SINGLE PITCH SPORT11MULTI PITCH SPORT1SINGLE PITCH TRAD0MULTI PITCH TRAD0



Cool world wall

woman-rock-climbingLocation About 200 feet past the second bridge on the north side of the canyon is the Cool World.

Great limestone, late afternoon shade, and one of the longer sport routes in the canyon.
 Range of difficulty  |  3 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
SINGLE PITCH SPORT2MULTI PITCH SPORT1SINGLE PITCH TRAD0MULTI PITCH TRAD0



The cooler

woman-rock-climbingLocation Walk up the canyon to the second bridge (a pipe also crosses the stream just downstream of the bridge). After crossing the bridge, look right and notice bolts on the rock. This is Hidden Wall

Continue past Hidden Wall, also passing a single-track trail that leaves the main trail to the right (this trail leads to the base of The Balcony). Another 50 feet or so and there is a rocky drainage slope that meets the main trail on the right. Turn off the main trail here and hike up the scree and watercourse, staying to the right. A few hundred feet up on the right is The Cooler.

 Range of difficulty  |  7 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
SINGLE PITCH SPORT7MULTI PITCH SPORT0SINGLE PITCH TRAD0MULTI PITCH TRAD0



Dork Dot Rock

woman-rock-climbingLocation The rock is located on the north side of the canyon approximately opposite and uphill from The Kitchen. To get there, cross the stream bed near the concrete chlorine treatment building and slog up a scree trail. Near the top of the scree there is a faint but obvious trail heading left. Take the trail to the base of Dork Dot Rock.

 Range of difficulty  |  3 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
SINGLE PITCH SPORT3MULTI PITCH SPORT0SINGLE PITCH TRAD0MULTI PITCH TRAD0



Ed and Terry Wall

woman-rock-climbingLocation As you hike up towards the canyon from the parking area, you will see the obvious west facing rocks on the south side of the canyon's entrance. You will probably see climbers on Red Slab

From the parking lot stay right on the paved road. When you see a short, blocky, concrete structure on your left you can also see an obvious trail leading up the hill on your right (the start has an upside-down 'Y' aspect to it). Take this trail and branch left at the first intersection. Follow this to the top of the Red Slab and then scramble on 4th class terrain (following a fixed rope) up to Ed and Terry

Be careful of loose rocks that can easily be dislodged onto climbers on Red Slab. It only takes 5 more minutes to reach the wall once you are at the base of Red Slab.

 Range of difficulty  |  23 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
15 
SINGLE PITCH SPORT5MULTI PITCH SPORT0SINGLE PITCH TRAD17MULTI PITCH TRAD1



Galaxy Area

woman-rock-climbingLocation Hike up to the first footbridge and leave the trail as if you are going to the tap wall. But just as you leave the trail look left and spot a concrete gutter thing. Walk west on this and where it ends look right and you will see a tree on the left and a rock on the right. Go up between these and you are on the trail. The trail is still undergoing some work and therefore you might see some re-bar and/or tools here and there. PLEASE LEAVE ALONE!!! We are using all this to build the trail FOR YOU ALL. The trail will lead directly to the walls. There are trails and landings for ease of access throughout the entire ares. Please stay on these and don't wreck what has already been built.

 Range of difficulty  |  49 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
21 
SINGLE PITCH SPORT45MULTI PITCH SPORT4SINGLE PITCH TRAD0MULTI PITCH TRAD0



George

woman-rock-climbingLocation Hike up the canyon from the main parking lot for about .25 miles. Pass the water house on your right, and after passing The Kitchen on your right go through the main, green gate. 

You will immediately see a short gully to right of the trail that goes up about 25 feet of trail before it hits a large chimney with a giant chockstone placed in it about 20 feet up. George starts at the arete on the left side of the chimney and includes all of the faces to the east along the craggy face.

 Range of difficulty  |  14 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
SINGLE PITCH SPORT5MULTI PITCH SPORT0SINGLE PITCH TRAD6MULTI PITCH TRAD1



Green monster slab

woman-rock-climbingLocation Walk up the canyon from the parking lot for about a four-tenths of a mile. After the small chlorine treatment building on the right, and just before a north-facing alcove (The Kitchen), turn right on a trail and head south and uphill. TheGreen Monster is the second west-facing slab on your right (the first is the Bolt Slab).

 Range of difficulty  |  6 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
SINGLE PITCH SPORT1MULTI PITCH SPORT1SINGLE PITCH TRAD0MULTI PITCH TRAD4



Hidden wall

woman-rock-climbingLocation Continue up the canyon, past the water fountain, over the first bridge, then over the second. The wall directly in front of you as you cross the second bridge is the Hidden Wall. Not very hidden, must be so-named because it is hidden from the sun.

 Range of difficulty  |  13 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
SINGLE PITCH SPORT12MULTI PITCH SPORT1SINGLE PITCH TRAD0MULTI PITCH TRAD0



the jobsite

woman-rock-climbingLocation To get to the left side routes: From the parking lot stay left on the road, cross the streambed and walk to the water tank on the north side of the canyon. Just past the water tank head up a trail to the right of the talus. Keep heading uphill, passing through some scrub oak until you reach the base of the crag. 

To get to the middle and right side: Start as above then continue past the water tank on the dirt road. Head up the trail on the slope under the right side (towards the mine entrance). Head for the roof area just left of the trail.

 Range of difficulty  |  19 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13+
SINGLE PITCH SPORT15MULTI PITCH SPORT2SINGLE PITCH TRAD0MULTI PITCH TRAD2



the kitchen

woman-rock-climbingLocation Park in the main lot. Walk up the main trail for about; don't head left across the streambed. Continue until you pass the pump house on the right. Just before you run into the gate crossing the path, stop. Turn to your right (south). You are looking at The Kitchen.

 Range of difficulty  |  8 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
1
SINGLE PITCH SPORT1MULTI PITCH SPORT0SINGLE PITCH TRAD7MULTI PITCH TRAD0



Layer Cake

woman-rock-climbingLocation Hike up the canyon from the parking lot, take the left fork in the road, continue up to the end of the pavement by the large cement water tank. From here, follow the trail up through some switchbacks that lead you to the right edge of the gully: this is The Jobsite. Walk past The Jobsite into the gully and then up the gully to a small trail on the right side in the trees.

 Range of difficulty  |  8 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
SINGLE PITCH SPORT4MULTI PITCH SPORT4SINGLE PITCH TRAD0MULTI PITCH TRAD0



Low Tide

woman-rock-climbingLocation From the parking lot hike east along the trail until you are about to reach the first bridge that crosses the stream bed (about 20 minutes). Instead of crossing the bridge stay right and walk along the stream bed, passing a gully on the right (that leads to The WildThe ZooTreasure Island, etc. 

 Range of difficulty  |  3 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
SINGLE PITCH SPORT3MULTI PITCH SPORT0SINGLE PITCH TRAD0MULTI PITCH TRAD0



The meat wall

woman-rock-climbingLocation From the parking lot head east on the road/trail. Just after the chlorine treatment building and just before the alcove known as The Kitchen turn right (south) and head uphill. On your left you will see the Bolt Slab, a smooth, west-facing formation (if you see a big crack you've gone too far and are looking at the Green Monster Slab). 

Either scramble up the north-facing ledges to the right of the Bolt Slab (scarier), or scramble past the north face around to the top of Bolt Slab and then down to reach the base of Meat Wall (slightly longer).

 Range of difficulty  |  8 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
SINGLE PITCH SPORT1MULTI PITCH SPORT0SINGLE PITCH TRAD6MULTI PITCH TRAD1




the mine wall

woman-rock-climbingLocation Instead of crossing the stream on the fourth wooden bridge, follow the obvious trail to the left. This will keep you on the north side of the stream. The first cliff you come to has an old mine right next to the trail. This is the Mine Wall. If you get to The Threshold, you've gone too far. 

Approach time: 30-40 minutes.

 Range of difficulty  |  1 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
SINGLE PITCH SPORT1MULTI PITCH SPORT0SINGLE PITCH TRAD0MULTI PITCH TRAD0




Mouth Boulder

woman-rock-climbingLocation Walk up canyon on the south paved road until the Bonneville trail appears on the right. Take the trail west. The trail to Dr. Teeth will appear on the left (avoid the first, steep "trail", which is basically just an eroded track straight up and take the second trail which heads southeast and up.

 Range of difficulty  |  2 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
SINGLE PITCH SPORT2MULTI PITCH SPORT0SINGLE PITCH TRAD0MULTI PITCH TRAD0




P.A.'s mother

asian-woman-lead-climbingLocation About a hundred or so feet past the second, green Rock Canyon gate look for a couple of logs crossing the stream bed at some concrete structures. If the water is running cross here; if no water (most of the year) go another fifty feet or so and cross the stream bed. You'll see a clearing ahead of you with an obvious trail leading north on the far side of the clearing. Take this trail which then turns right and deposits you at The Appendage

Walk east past The Appendage and pick up the trail across the talus just east of the The Appendage. Follow this trail to the base of P.A.'s Mother

Note that the trail from The Appendage to P.A.'s Mother is new as of May 2007; use it rather than the old, nasty slog up the talus directly below P.A.'s Mother

 Range of difficulty  |  17 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
10 
SINGLE PITCH SPORT10MULTI PITCH SPORT0SINGLE PITCH TRAD7MULTI PITCH TRAD0




The projects

gal-climbing-in-awesome-locationLocation From the first foot bridge (which you DO NOT CROSS) head a bit further up canyon until an obvious gully appears on your right. This is the start of the approach. You will pass a few areas on your way (pretty good for warming up if you have a away) but just keep going up a pretty crappy trail. This trail improves a bit past Treasure Island and you should have less trouble working your way the higher you go. The Projects are identified from afar (as well as up close) by several large and deep holes/caves. There are some large landings that signal the end of the long approach and the beginning of the routes.

 Range of difficulty  |  4 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
SINGLE PITCH SPORT4MULTI PITCH SPORT0SINGLE PITCH TRAD0MULTI PITCH TRAD0




Red slab

woman-rock-climbingLocation As you approach Rock Canyon from the parking area, this will be the first rock on the right. As you are hiking you will see a water tank on your left. Red Slab is the slab on the south side of the road at the entrance to the canyon proper. Hike up and to the right for a 5 minute approach from the "old" road. Approximately 10-15 minute approach from the parking lot.

 Range of difficulty  |  10 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
8
SINGLE PITCH SPORT7MULTI PITCH SPORT0SINGLE PITCH TRAD3MULTI PITCH TRAD0




the rest area

woman-rock-climbingLocation From the parking lot stay right on the paved road. When you see a short, blocky, concrete structure on your left you can also see an obvious trail leading up the hill on your right (the start has an upside-down 'Y' aspect to it). Take this trail and branch left at the first intersection. Follow this to the top of the Red Slab and then scramble on 4th class terrain (following a fixed rope) up to Ed and Terry Ridge

Be careful of loose rocks that can easily be dislodged onto climbers on Red Slab. It only takes 5 more minutes to reach the wall once you are at the base of Red Slab.

 Range of difficulty  |  9 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
SINGLE PITCH SPORT4MULTI PITCH SPORT0SINGLE PITCH TRAD5MULTI PITCH TRAD0




The scenic turnout

woman-rock-climbingLocation From the parking lot start up the canyon, staying right on the pavement. When you see a low, blocky concrete structure on the left take the Ed and Terry trail that appears on the right and heads uphill. This deposits you at the south (uphill) end of the Red Slab

Scramble up to the top of the Red Slab area using the fixed rope and then follow the right-to-left, upward sloping scramble to the base of the main Ed and Terry Wall. Travel uphill and south, scramble past a tree and head to a ledge above the west-facing rock in front of the main wall. Make a (slightly nerve-wracking) traverse south through a small gap into the gully. 

Alternatively from the uphill end of Red Slab head west, then south and scramble up the gully itself. (I've only come down that way and don't like it as much as the way described above.)

 Range of difficulty  |  5 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
SINGLE PITCH SPORT1MULTI PITCH SPORT0SINGLE PITCH TRAD4MULTI PITCH TRAD0




ska block

MAN-CLIMBING-SOMEWHERE-COOLLocation From the parking lot head east on the road/trail. Just after the chlorine treatment building and just before the alcove known as The Kitchen turn right (south) and head uphill. On your left you will see the Bolt Slab, a smooth, west-facing formation (if you see a big crack you've gone too far and are looking at the Green Monster Slab). 

Either scramble up the north-facing ledges to the right of the Bolt Slab (scarier), or scramble past the north face around to the top of Bolt Slab and then down to reach the base of Meat Wall (slightly longer).

 Range of difficulty  |  8 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
SINGLE PITCH SPORT1MULTI PITCH SPORT0SINGLE PITCH TRAD6MULTI PITCH TRAD1



Solitary Misdemeanors

woman-lead-climbingLocation About 25 minutes from the parking lot on the north side of the canyon. 

Follow the trail past the third bridge that crosses the stream (or stream bed, depending on season). Approximately 150 to 200 feet past the bridge a rock ridge sweeps down from the north to meet the trail. Follow a trail on the west side of this outcropping to the Solitary Misdemeanors crag.

 Range of difficulty  |  2 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
SINGLE PITCH SPORT2MULTI PITCH SPORT0SINGLE PITCH TRAD0MULTI PITCH TRAD0




squaw peak wall

climber-with-rope-and-drawLocation Getting to the base of the rock takes between 35 minutes and an hour depending on how fast you're going and how familiar you are with the approach. See the route description for more information.

 Range of difficulty  |  1 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
SINGLE PITCH SPORT0MULTI PITCH SPORT1SINGLE PITCH TRAD0MULTI PITCH TRAD0




super bowl wall

man-climbing-areteLocation Easy to see from the parking lot. 

From the parking lot start on the paved path. Take the left fork and cross the streambed (or stream, in the Spring). Pass the round water tank on your left and take a path that angles uphill and right a bit. 

Follow the path (avoiding the talus on your left) to the base of the light-colored wall directly above (The Jobsite). Turn left (west) and head directly across the talus to some trees at the base of an overhanging, brown formation. Continue uphill and cross a small gully. 

Continue west until you turn a corner and head uphill on some brown, sharp rock (Mineral Fork Tillite). Follow the faint trail west and uphill that appears when you leave the tillite. This trail deposits you at the left side of the Super Bowl roof. 

 Range of difficulty  |  12 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
SINGLE PITCH SPORT11MULTI PITCH SPORT0SINGLE PITCH TRAD1MULTI PITCH TRAD0




tap wall

mani-climbingLocation Hike up the canyon to the first stream crossing. Immediately after crossing the stream look north (left). Tap Wall is at the top of the scree slope.

 Range of difficulty  |  4 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
SINGLE PITCH SPORT4MULTI PITCH SPORT0SINGLE PITCH TRAD0MULTI PITCH TRAD0




threshold

some-guy-lead-climbingLocation Hike up the canyon to the fourth stream crossing. Instead of crossing the stream, stay left on the trail on the north side of the stream. Threshold is the second crag with bolted routes on the left (the first is the Mine Wall, with one route).

 Range of difficulty  |  8 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
1
SINGLE PITCH SPORT8MULTI PITCH SPORT0SINGLE PITCH TRAD0MULTI PITCH TRAD0




Tinker toys

woman-rock-climbingLocation Start from the Rock Canyon parking lot and walk up the canyon for about fifteen minutes. You will pass the first major rock formations, Red Slab and Black Rose, on your right. 

Just after you pass the pump house on the right, but before you get to The Kitchen and the gate, scamper up through the trees on one of the many trails for about 80 meters. You will pass Bolt Slab and Green Monster (both of which face west) on the left. Green Monster is identifiable because of the large crack that runs up the middle of it. 

Tinker Toys is the next major west-facing rock face south of Green Monster

Tinker Toys has several obvious bolted routes and chain anchors on top.

 Range of difficulty  |  8 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
SINGLE PITCH SPORT5MULTI PITCH SPORT0SINGLE PITCH TRAD3MULTI PITCH TRAD0




training camp

military-man-lead-climbingLocation The easiest approach is as for Super Bowl Wall and Bad Bananas. Continue west along the base of the rock following the sheep trails. 

It is possible to approach more directly, but it is a miserable slog and leads to more erosion.

 Range of difficulty  |  10 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
SINGLE PITCH SPORT9MULTI PITCH SPORT0SINGLE PITCH TRAD1MULTI PITCH TRAD0




treasure island

woman-reaching-for-rack-of-nutsLocation Tresure Island is located in the gully that leads up to The Projects. Approach as you would for The Zoo (that is, go up the canyon to the first wooden bridge. Don't cross the stream but continue on the right (south) side of the stream for about 100 feet. Turn right up a gully and follow the path. Instead of taking a right to The Zoo, continue straight up the gully). Continue past the beautiful Uncle Tom's Cabin for a few more minutes. Soon you'll see Treasure Island on the right side of the gully.

 Range of difficulty  |  3 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
SINGLE PITCH SPORT3MULTI PITCH SPORT0SINGLE PITCH TRAD0MULTI PITCH TRAD0




trilogy buttress

two-women-top-rope-climbingLocation To get to the base of the Trilogy routes head up the main large scree slope and drainage located to the east of Super Bowl Wall on the right side of the water tower. As you look up the scree you will see that it forks about 500 feet up. The buttress rising out of the fork is Trilogy. The main routes start on the left side about another 100 feet up the left fork.

 Range of difficulty  |  12 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
10 
SINGLE PITCH SPORT6MULTI PITCH SPORT4SINGLE PITCH TRAD2MULTI PITCH TRAD0




Upper Bug Barn Dance Wall

pretty-amazing-rackLocation Get to the base of Bug Barn Dance Wall: Walk up the canyon to the (sometimes-functional) water fountain at the right side of the trail. Look east and a little left of the trail. You'll see the Bug Barn Dance Wall

After getting to the base of BBDW, traverse west along the top of the talus. Cross a tiny ridge, along the wall some more, then cross another bump. Another few steps and you're at the base.

 Range of difficulty  |  2 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
SINGLE PITCH SPORT2MULTI PITCH SPORT0SINGLE PITCH TRAD0MULTI PITCH TRAD0




the wasp

girl-climbing-at-sunsetLocation On the north side of the canyon mouth, use the trail immediately east of the water tank. Pass the first fork (where, if you went left, you'd go to Super Bowl Wall) continuing straight up the gully. 

When you get near the base of The Wasp, there will be a steep scree to your left that you can follow around to the west side. (It's easier to go this way than along the dark rock that separates Super Bowl from The Wasp.)

 Range of difficulty  |  10 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
1
SINGLE PITCH SPORT9MULTI PITCH SPORT0SINGLE PITCH TRAD1MULTI PITCH TRAD0



the wild

guy-grabbing-small-edgeLocation The easiest approach is as for Super Bowl Wall and Bad Bananas. Continue west along the base of the rock following the sheep trails. 

It is possible to approach more directly, but it is a miserable slog and leads to more erosion.

 Range of difficulty  |  10 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
SINGLE PITCH SPORT7MULTI PITCH SPORT0SINGLE PITCH TRAD3MULTI PITCH TRAD0




the zoo

girl-top-rope-climbingLocation Proceed up the canyon to the first stream crossing (small wooden bridge). Don't cross the stream but continue on the right (south) side of the stream for about 100 feet (35 steps for me). Turn right up a gully and follow the path. On the right (west) after approximately 200 feet you will find a small notch that leads to The Zoo.

 Range of difficulty  |  5 total routes
5.9-.10a.10b.10c.10d.11a.11b.11c.11d.12a.12b.12c.12d.13a
SINGLE PITCH SPORT5MULTI PITCH SPORT0SINGLE PITCH TRAD0MULTI PITCH TRAD0